Art of the Land at Arterra
By Brian Yost
If you stop by the Arterra Wines tasting room near Delaplane, the significance of the winery’s name will seem obvious. The words “art” and “terra” have been blended to mean “art of the land.” After all, owners Jason Murray and Sandy Gray-Murray are artists. Sandy’s earth and vine-inspired artworks are exhibited in the tasting room, which doubles as her gallery. Jason’s art is on display at the tasting bar, where you can sample the Arterra wines. That seems simple enough. With regard to the wine, however, there is something slightly more nuanced taking place.
Most winegrowers will tell you that their wine is primarily an expression of what happens in the vineyard. Wine, after all, is an agricultural product. At the same time, there is some degree of manipulation that takes place in the winery. In that regard, Jason is a self-described minimalist. Above all else, Arterra wines are an expression of the land.
In an earlier life, Jason was a state horticulturalist and worked exclusively in Northern Virginia. This background provided him with an understanding of local terroir that few other growers possess. Site selection is important and the rocky soil of Fauquier County is perfect for viticulture. Most wineries have paid close attention to ideal site selection and even paid hefty fees for expert consultants, so Arterra is really no different in this regard.
Jason will tell you that he allows his fruit to mature as long as possible. By letting the fruit hang on the vine well into October, it is possible to elevate the Brix (sugar content) to ideal levels in a good growing year. Low Brix will force winemakers to add sugar, which is a key element of fermentation. Again, many winegrowers apply this same principle. So what is so special about Arterra?
To the best of my knowledge, Jason is the only winemaker in the Mid-Atlantic using native yeast. As opposed to cultured yeast purchased and applied in the winery by every other winemaker in the state, native yeast is a natural product that occurs in the vineyard. Winemakers prefer the stronger commercial yeasts, because they ferment more quickly and produce a more consistent product. These factors are very important in larger-scale production, but they eliminate an element of risk for wineries of any size. So why use native yeast?
If properly managed, the payoff for natural fermentation can be huge. Fortunately, this is Jason’s superpower. His wines have complexity and textures that are difficult to achieve with cultured yeasts. Conventional wines have fairly linear taste profiles that move from the front to the back of the palate. The Arterra wines are also linear, but spread out across the tongue with rich flavor profiles. A description simply will not do. I suggest you experience it for yourself.
The Arterra vineyards are too young to produce fruit, so it will be another year or two before we see any true estate wines. Even then, the vines will be young, but I anticipate great things. Jason has planted Chenin Blanc, Malbec and Petit Syrah. I have encountered just a few Malbecs regionally and I have tasted a couple that were quite good. Chenin Blanc and Petit Syrah, on the other hand, are new to the East Coast. I am keeping my fingers crossed and looking forward to something a little different.
The main event at Arterra, however, is Tannat. If you are unfamiliar with the varietal, it is a big, bold red that is grown widely in Southern France and is the predominant varietal in Uruguay. It is cultivated throughout Virginia, but it has historically been used for blending. In the last few years, a handful of winemakers east of the Blue Ridge have championed the grape and single-varietal Tannat has appeared in several tasting rooms. There have been some stunning examples. I predict that 10 years from now Virginia will be known for this grape in much the way it is for Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot today. Jason was crafting exceptional Tannat prior to opening his own winery. So let me further predict that Arterra will be among the wineries of note leading the charge in the production of world-class Tannat.
I visited Arterra on their opening day in early 2015 and I have been frantically telling people about them ever since. I am often surprised at how few people are even aware of the winery, but it is after all a small boutique operation. It is not one of the big flashy tasting rooms with music every weekend and busses will find it difficult to navigate the narrow gravel lane that leads to the tasting room. In any case, it is really a venue for the serious wine drinker. So if you fit that profile, Arterra is just a short drive from Middleburg.
Cheers!