Zephaniah Farm Vineyard

— A Family Affair

Story and photos by Brian Yost

In addition to being a working farm, Zephaniah Farm Vineyard is the definition of a family vineyard. The name “Zephaniah” is borrowed from the owner’s grandfather, who ran the Monticello Steamship Co. in San Francisco. On the day of my visit, both owners, Bill Hatch and Bonnie Archer, were working in the tasting room and at least one of their daughters was helping out.

It is the family that manages the vineyard and makes the wine. A family council determines all of the blends.

They seriously sit down together, taste the various blends and vote. How egalitarian is that? In any case, it seems to work.

The tastings are conducted in the living room of the old circa 1830 manor house. Tables are laid out and guests are invited to sit, while Hatch and Archer work the floor and pour the wines. It is very relaxed and the owners take time to talk about the history of the farm, tell a few family stories and discuss the qualities of each wine.

Each of the wines is extraordinary and I can say with absolute candor that there is not a single wine that is not well-crafted and worthy of praise.

It is a fairly singular experience that makes their guests feel welcome and completely at home. I am not sure how it could be improved.

Zephaniah is a relatively small boutique operation. The Hatch family is making about 1,200 cases per year from the 9.6 acres of estate-grown fruit.

Each of the wines is extraordinary and I can say with absolute candor that there is not a single wine that is not well-crafted and worthy of praise. Nevertheless, I will point out a couple of my favorites.

Right out the gate, the Steamship White got my attention and remained my favorite of the whites. It is a blend of chardonel, cabernet franc, petit manseng and vidal blanc. The cab franc adds a bit of complexity to this perfectly balanced wine.

Of course, I am always a sucker for a good cabernet franc and the Zephaniah example won silver in both the 2014 and 2015 Governor’s Cup. It is no wonder, given the structured tannins and fruit.

It also lacked the green pepper notes evident in many cab francs. It was my top pick and I am a bit surprised that it did not earn gold.

The property lends itself to exploring. The Hatch family encourages visitors to picnic on the lawn or linger out back in one of the many chairs situated around the grounds.

I wandered over to the new event hall that recently opened next door. It is a beautiful space that compliments a special venue. It is typically open and frequently used as an overflow tasting space or to accommodate large parties.

If you have not previously visited, I strongly urge you to make the drive. Zephaniah is not far south of Leesburg and just a few minutes off Route 15. They are open only on the weekends and close during the winter because the roads can become a bit treacherous. Regardless, it is a place that really needs to be seen in fair weather, when you can spend some time and explore. ML

Zephaniah Farm Vineyard
Open Friday-Sunday noon-5:30 p.m.
19381 Dunlop Mill Rd., Leesburg, VA 20175
703-431-1994 | zephwine.com